Hibiscus – warm terrine of smoked label anglais chicken and foie gras

Following a couple of failed outings for offal club, namely a trip to Troyes that ended in an arrest and more recently a trip to a Mayfair pub that ended in us being ejected before we had even started on the award-winning steak and kidney pudding, we were back and this time on our best behaviour. 

In our search for London’s perfect offal dish it is inevitable that from time to time we will be coming across foie gras. Where you stand on the ethics of foie gras is of course personal, needless to say, we can’t get enough of the stuff.

Now some purists would argue that there is nothing nicer than a simple terrine, warm toasted brioche and a glass of sauternes, probably true, but we are searching for something a bit more original, something that expresses the personality of the chef.

Claude Bosi for our money is the most exciting chef in London. His dishes are provocative and playful. Unlike many at this level Bosi takes risks. Combinations are dazzling, flavours are acute and concentrated, presentation verges on abstract and garnish is minimal.  He will often deftly introduce spice or aromatics to highlight key ingredients. Food at Hibiscus is deceptively complex. 

When we heard that Bosi had paired foie gras with liquorice we were on the scene like flies at a picnic.

warm terrine of smoked Label anglais chicken and foie gras, leeks and liquorice

We are stabbing in the dark to guess exactly the techniques used in this. The chicken had undergone a light confit a gentle smoke and been shredded. Foie gras had been introduced for binding, richness as well as flavour. Powdered and toasted brioche crumbs gave texture. Leeks were on point and intensely flavoured, so far so good.

The real genius here was the subtle addition of liquorice, a hugely contrasting and aromatic flavour but which also struck a chord with all other ingredients. This is very clever cooking.

Yes, you are not mistaken there was a sprig of frisee present and am sure your aware of our policy on random sprigs of shrubbery, here it had a purpose.

Warm terrine of smoked label anglais chicken and foie gras is part of the three course set lunch menu and is thirty-three pounds and fifty pence.

Some would argue that at this level a trip to the Ledbury or the Square is a better overall dining experience. For us what Hibiscus lacks in atmosphere it more than makes up for in food and for that is unmissable.

Offalclub 92/100

Pollen street social – Irish ox tongue n’cheek

Another new one but yet again we have a member on the inside and so were given the all clear. However our don’t visit a restaurant for the first six months rule is there for a reason and was broken at our peril, Just under a week after opening things were not gelling. 

The aircon wasn’t working, normally not an issue but on the hottest day in April for 30 years it was.

The Josper Oven was mis-behaving, the food seemed unaffected but it did set off the fire alarms closing shutters and doors around us, for a minute it felt more like Auschwitz than Mayfair.

The whole of Pollen street seems to be undergoing a refurb, this normally sedate alley has been turned into a building site – watching chubby builders spend lunch time scratching their bollocks didn’t in any way enhance our experience…well not all of us.

Most at OC have been involved in opening restaurants in one way or another and we should have known better. There is serious financial pressure to open before ready. Soft openings and PR parties eat into cashflow. They need to start getting some cash back and quick. We can forgive them.  We also forgive them because we know that once Jason has sorted out the kitchen he will undoubtably spend his time sorting out the rest of this mess.

Of course we weren’t here to cast judgement on the tailoring of the chef’s whites, the Ibiza mix tape on the sound system, the design of the toilets or the barman’s inability to make a bloody mary. We were here for the offal.

Braised Irish ox tongue n’ cheek

Not sure exactly what the offensive greenery was but it was easily removed and placed in a nearby flower arrangement.

The Ox cheek was the real deal, perfectly trimmed, braised, glazed and really well-flavoured. This was a good piece of meat and was skillfully executed.

The tongue was also well cooked, we detected a bit of spice action giving a welcome boost. The jus was spot on – really clean.

Garnish of salt baked carrots were good but nothing to warrant a menu mention and the inclusion of purple carrots seemed more of a gimmick than for any other reason.

 The real trick was the base of Caper and raisin puree – ‘not that old chestnut’ I hear you say, well yes, but thankfully not paired with scallops and cauliflower for a change and finally put to good use combating the bold richness of the meat. A side of nigh on perfect mash was a welcome addition.

All in all a great dish and one we will be back for.

Irish ox tongue n’ cheek was thirteen pounds and fifty pence, this was a bargain. However we have since noticed that he has reverted to a more formal menu structure and the same dish with a bit of onglet thrown in is now twenty-one pounds and fifty pence……..not so good.

Service was poor and at times arrogant. The managers have a 2* swagger with gastropub standards. Not something we would normally comment on, has no effect on the score and wouldn’t let it put you off. Pss will only get better and better and given a little time could become really special.

Offalclub 81/100

St John Hotel – pigs head, rabbit and radishes

……..so the rule of not judging ‘just opened’ restaurants is now officially defunct.

Fact is we have been waiting for this one for what feels like years. Followers of this blog will know how highly we rate St John  and will understand our intrigue when we heard of Fergus Henderson and Trevor Gulliver’s plot to turn the old Manzi’s site into a Hotel and bring the St John experience smack bang into the arse hole of The West End.

Questions were being asked, Could they? Would they? but more importantly there was the question of the offal.

We are delighted to say that its been worth the wait, team St John haven’t compromised one bit.

 The place looks amazing; the history and integrity of the old building has been respected…..then bleached.

 Its white, ……it’s very white, on the way in we were passed on the stairs by the dulux dog.

The restaurant itself is in keeping with the existing St John but smaller and more state of the art, views over the bins and backside of the W hotel add a bit of edge. Upstairs, the bar looks like the waiting room of an STD clinic, the toilets retain the ‘abattoir chic’ of the original. Even the chefs don’t look like West End chefs, a combo of young beardy doctors and mad scientists.

We were of course not here to judge the facial hair of the staff or the co-ordination of the interiors – word had leaked that during the months of non-opening the chefs had been working on a variant of brawn involving shredded rabbit, luckily we didn’t have to wait long before it appeared on the menu

Pigs head, rabbit and radishes

Similar to brawn – braised pigs head, [and more than likely a few trotters] and rabbit had been chopped rolled and set in its own jelly, sliced thinly served on a mustard dressed salad of frisee, watercress, fines herbs, some stella breakfast radishes, capers and shallots, simply brilliant

Dare we say it but this almost looked pretty, don’t get me wrong the Fergus Henderson anti-garnish rule is still in force here but there is a sense of refinement not seen before. . the texture is as you would expect perfectly firm and gelatinous, flavour-wise spot on; the rabbit acting as a lean foil to the fatty pigs head.

There is a danger of top end restaurants polishing offal dishes that can lead to them not tasting like offal at all, not here, in everything we tasted the balance was perfect.

Pigs head, rabbit and radishes is seven pounds and fifty pence.

Food at The St John Hotel is not cheap; tripe and onions at sixteen fifty and langoustines at four pounds a pop doesn’t seem like great value, tread carefully.

We do however feel that this is a notch up on St John, early days to really judge but our initial thoughts are that cooking seems more precise and flavours more delicate. Service also seems a step up. We’ll be back.

Offalclub 83/100

Koffmann’s – Cassoulet Toulousain

It would have been predictable on a visit to Koffmann’s to have centered our attention on the famed pigs trotters. Awesome yes, but sadly not as good as the dish we remember from his days at La Tante Claire and at twenty-eight pounds offer no value whatsoever.

Apologies to the many Offal Club members who didn’t get the nod on this one, we got the word at 11.30 and were in the restaurant at 12.15. When Koffmann cooks cassoulet there’s  not a minute to waste.

First a few facts…

In chef folklore Pierre Koffmann is known simply as the bear. Not so many years ago his 3 star restaurant La Tante Claire was regarded as the best in Britain. For aspiring chefs it was the ultimate culinary finishing school. Basically if you were a chef and were ambitious you had to work there. Tales of brutality, breakdowns and exhaustion, this was extreme cooking producing absolutely brilliant food.

Koffmann led from the stoves, often pushing his team out of the way to do a section for the day. Cooking here was different from other fine dining restaurants, flavours were big and garnish was minimal. The bear became a legend. Michel Roux Jnr called him ‘the complete chef’

That was more than five years ago, times move fast in this trade and things have changed. Young chefs now are keener on cooking through science than intuition, Koffmann no longer has his limitless resource of londons finest cooks to back him and has had to build his team from scratch. He has chewed through head chefs like a panda goes through bamboo. He is pissed off and spending as much time now in the kitchen as he ever has – a good thing for us.

Factor in that he also has the restraints of the hotel requirements to contend with, chefs hours limited to 48 hour weeks, meal breaks etc, etc , this is all new to Koffmann….. the bear has a sore head

Lucky for us when the bear gets angry he cooks and cooks hard, immersing himself for hours in dishes he loves, dishes from his childhood, dishes from south-west France – Cuisine de terroir

Cassoulet Toulousain

So what’s all the fuss about?

The usual suspects are all present and correct; confit of duck, sausages – Morteaux and Toulouse, croutons in goose fat and of course the beans, garlic and parsley, so far so good. Koffman’s personal master stroke is his deft touch with the addition of offal; the fatty trimmings of Bayonne knuckle, the off-cuts of Noire de Bigorre ham, the chunks of pigs trotter. We are clutching at straws to try to guess the exact proportions but the balance was sublime.

It is the sort of dish that Koffmann excels at, a dish that was probably a permanent fixture on his mothers stove throughout his childhood and a dish that brings back more than a few memories to him when he makes it.

 Believe me – You can taste the love.

Cassoulet has many variations and offal club purists argued that the Toulousain version should contain mutton yada, yada, yada, …that’s not important here, this is Cassoulet Koffmann and it rocks.

Cassoulet Toulousain was part of the set lunch menu which is twenty-five pounds and fifty pence for three courses.

Consider that all other courses are at the same quality, throw in an amuse bouche of pissalidiere, some wonderful bread, well seasoned vegetables, frites ‘a la Monde’ and exquisite service from one of Londons best front of house teams there isn’t many better places to spend an afternoon.

Offalclub 90/100

The Bull and Last – Homemade Charcuterie board

Offal club love Judith Chalmers………….always have…always will. 

Judith has spent the best part of her life travelling the globe, getting paid huge sums of license payers money telling us where we should be spending our summer holidays whilst secretly nipping off to eat offal in some of the worlds best restaurants.You can safely say that when it comes to food Judith knows her shit.

The fact that Judith has also been munching at the Bull and last on our last two visits there has definitely enhanced our experience. As professionals we have tried to keep this fact at the back of our minds while making judgement.

[For anyone who doesn’t know who Judith Chalmers is or why she is adored by offal club look no further than here] 

The Bull and Last is claimed by many to be London’s finest Gastro pub. Situated falling distance from Hampstead heath it attracts an upmarket hedonistic following; ruddy-faced forty somethings, valium addled grandmothers, gap kids swearing like the Gallaghers, black labradors trained to hunt scotch eggs,……… add a few ‘A’ list celebs, Hendrix on the sound system, some fine ales, a well priced wine list and down to earth staff and you have something really special.

The food is undeniably brilliant, The core of the menu is a masterclass in pub staples battered cod is amongst the best in London, Pies are braised in proper gravy, Sunday roasts are legendary and perfect triple cooked chips not served in the West ends namby pamby seven chip portions [take note Hawksmoor!]. It’s the other dishes though that the chefs really let rip.

homemade charcuterie board

 

As this will be compared to the bar Boulud version its only fair that we break it down in the same way so from bottom left clockwise here is what you get;

Chicken liver parfait – like Heston’s meat fruit without the gimmicks and every bit as delicious

Game terrine – a very generous slice, expertly constructed and seasoned, nice touch with the walnuts,

Cured Duck breast – Home cured duck breast sliced wafer thin, garnished with pickled grapes, good but a little too thin to really get to grips with…

Rillette – Standard issue? Yes, but something we never tire of and this version is seriously good.

Pigs head croquette, last but by no means least a de-boned, braised, breaded then deep-fried piece of pigs head – brilliant!

The supporting cast – mango chutney, pickled shallots, celeriac remoulade, cornichons, capers, caperberries, watercress and a token buttered radish.

There is no shortage of work involved here but that aside what particularly appeals to us about this board is the quality of ingredients and the variation of tastes and textures. This really is a board to take your time over.

Homemade charcuterie board at the bull and last is ten pounds.

As value for money goes this really is unbeatable. The big question is it as good as the Bar Boulud version?

The debate went late into the night, tempers flared, scuffles broke out…

Both are immense and both work perfectly in their own setting but for the value, the carefully sourced ingredients and the evident passion the Bull and last edges it.

Offalclub 88/100

www.thebullandlast.co.uk

Bread and Wine – Suckling pig’s brain on toast

First up for all the Offal conspiracy theorists and wind-up merchants who suspect that this dish was a set up between the BW chefs and myself  I will try to explain and put the record straight.

I will admit that there were a few coincidences:

Firstly I’m not really sure why I was walking around Brick lane/Spitalfields on this chilly February morning, I never go there on weekdays, I don’t live anywhere near there and it’s nowhere near my work, The market was half closed, the place was dead yet there I was with a few hours to kill, a stinking hangover and in desperate need of some swine.

Secondly this just happened to be the very same day that Bread and Wine head chef James Lowe decided to start preparing a suckling pig to be braised in mead for the next day – not something he does often. He had shucked out the brain and instead of eating it for his breakfast decided to put the one and only portion on the specials board.

Thirdly Bread and Wine is usually open throughout the day but on this particular day due to a wine function it opened at 12.30 just minutes prior to my arrival, dishes like this sell fast, I was the first paying customer on that day. 

Finally I’ve no idea why my T-mobile connection abandoned me as I entered the restaurant. It basically meant I couldn’t share my good fortune with the other Offal clubbers and was left to tackle this beast alone…..an act of God

 …anyway back to the brains

Suckling pig’s brains on toast

This dish is such a rarity on restaurant menus I really have nothing to compare it to.

The preparation was akin to the simple French dish of calves brains –Cervelles au beurre noir; trimmed, blanched, pan-fried, finished with a little brown butter, a few extra fine capers and a squeeze of lemon. It was then scooped on some excellent St John sourdough and garnished with some shredded sorrel.

Needless to say this was super-fresh and super delicious; flavourwise extremely subtle and delicately but definitely pork, texturally melt in the mouth yes, but also a firmness more common in sweetbreads than brains.  

The very fact that this dish made the menu shows a real passion for the product. Most chefs these days get more excited knocking up gels and foams than the actual ingredients themselves. Here the chef knew he had something special on his hands, knew what to do with it and was excited enough to share it.

Suckling Pig’s brain at Bread and Wine was five pounds. 

If your into your Offal St John bread and wine is exceptional, especially on weekdays when the specials board often has a few one offs. Always worth sticking your head in if you are in the area.

Offalclub 93/100

Dinner by Heston – Ragoo of pigs ears

First off the name – Dinner?…. wasn’t sure at first. Thought Heston had been freebasing  Xanthan gum again. Thought that somebody at Manderin Oriental HQ should have pulled him to one side and given the old you do the food, we’ll do the name’ chat. All the lunch at Dinner jokes were flogged to death within the first week but now we’ve been and everything seems to make sense.

Yet again we break the give the restaurant 6 months to bed in rule, we did seriously consider leaving this one but as two members of Offalclub are working in the Dinner kitchens we were given the nod,…… ‘We are ready’.

All at offal club are all huge Heston /Ashley Palmer Watts fans and have followed them since the early days. We used to go to the Fat Duck religiously on a monthly basis, that however was a long time ago, a time when we could afford to go, a time when the lunch menu wasn’t £160 it was £23.50

Don’t believe me?…

It was a time when Heston was young, experimental and daring, dishes were constantly evolving, he had nothing to prove and took risks. Sure, some dishes didn’t work, but for each combination that failed there were at least 10 others that were magical. The place was rough around the edges but had soul. The kitchen was tiny, the toilets were outside where you would often find Heston having a few quiet words with disobedient members of his team while you were filling the urinals.

Then he became popular, got on the Michelin ladder, refurbished half of Bray to fit his developement team in and the rest is history. A visit to the Fat Duck now is going to see Star Wars, first time blows you away, following visits are still enjoyable but lack excitement and go on about 30 minutes too long.  Anyway were not reviewing the Fat Duck  just mentioning that we are glad that Heston seems to have his soul back. We are really pleased that you can actually choose what you want to eat and even more pleased that you can afford to do so….Bring it on.

Ragoo of pigs ears

Before we get started there was the small matter of the garnish to be disposed of. Don’t know how this piece of green nonsense sneaked into the kitchen but were pretty sure that rucola wasn’t de rigueur back in 1750s. Anyway we flicked it off into a nearby plant pot where it seemed more at home.   

Now we are not even going to attempt to try to decipher the exact preparation of this dish, basically the pigs ears had been shredded, braised with onions and spices in the most ridiculously complex flavoured jus imaginable. Already at this point brilliant but the real tricks were the introduction of mustard seeds which kind of explode acidity and anchovy used not as a flavouring but a seasoning. The dish is topped with some crunchy caramelised baby onions, freshened up with parsley and served on toast. Intense.

As we have mentioned many times fine dining restaurants tend to strip offal of its integrity, here pigs ears are given the ultimate respect, tamed down yes, but you are left in no doubt as to what you are eating. This dish like everything else we tried was superbly executed.

The food at Dinner is seriously impressive, primarily for the total originality but more so for the precise attention to detail throughout, even the basics like fries or carrots are the best fries or carrots you will ever eat. Other dishes have become classics within weeks, the meat fruit is the been there, seen it, eaten it dish of 2011.

The ragoo of pigs ears is 28 pounds.

 I must mention that for this you also get some amazing bread, a main course, a dessert and a nifty petit four. Believe me this is insanely good value and if anything like the Fat Duck will be more that triple that within two years.

Offalclub 92/100

Brawn – Tete de veau, sauce ravigote

Offal club has a rule not to visit a restaurant that has just opened.

We like to give a six month bedding in period, time for the team to have sorted itself out,   time for all the dishes that haven’t worked to have been removed and enough time that all the newspaper critics and ‘have to be first’ bloggers to have moved onto the next big thing. Basically a time for the restaurant to get into its rythm.

When we heard that the owners of the brilliant Terroirs were opening a more food orientated offering on Columbia road this rule went completely out of the window and six months became six weeks. 

Part owner and chef of both restaurants Ed Wilson has worked with some of the best chefs in London and it shows. Ed has turned his back on the fine dining scene and has concentrated on serving the food he loves. The menu is beautifully crafted and shows a educated, mature enthusiasm. No-nonsence ‘chefs food’ at its best, Ingredients are as intelligently sourced as the wines, none of that supplier catalogue surfing bullshit that many young restaurant chefs are guilty of. Any menu with a section titled ‘Pig’ is ok with us.

There is a lot to go at for offal lovers and the supporting cast on this visit included the usual brilliant charcuterie, bone marrow stuffed field mushrooms, black pudding and oxtail parmentier and Montbeliard sausage.

We were particularly glad to see that our old Terroir’s favourite lardo from the tiny village of Colonnata in Tuscany had made the journey east….  perfect foreplay while we waited for the main event.

 

 

 

Tete de veau, sauce ravigote

Calves head; boned, plucked, rolled around its tongue, braised and finally served in its broth with potatoes and root vegetables, served with a pot of exquisite sauce ravigote and an unlimited supply of splendid Hackney wild sourdough bread.

The aroma when this bad boy hits the table was a conversation stopper and there was a sudden rush for the spoons.

The broth is naturally clear and has depth and an gentle intensity you can only get with veal bones. The meat is skillfully braised and perfectly tender, just holding together enough to need use of a knife, the texture is gelatinous without being too fatty, and flavourwise it truly delivers. The braising vegetables have been removed and replaced by a cleaner more ‘on point’ version. A very refined execution and totally awesome.

We are no stranger to calves heads and have eaten many different versions across the capital. During this meal there was much drunken debate as to whether or not this was better than the one at Racine [garnished with brain]. To settle this argument an official offalclub visit there is imminent.

Tete de veau at Brawn is thirteen pounds… considering it is an all you need, fully garnished, offal one-pot-shop is brilliant value.

Offal club 90/100

Barrafina – Morcilla Iberica, Quails eggs

 

We won’t bore you with the details of Barrafina, everybodys written about it and we are sure you have read enough about the long queues after 6pm, the shabby service if you sit outside and how everything else is utterly, utterly brilliant.

The fact that it is still as popular as ever is a testament to the consistent high standards set by owners Sam and Eddie Hart. The food is always tip-top.

Carefully sourced ingredients simply prepared served from espresso swilling Spaniards who effortlessly combine a charming swagger with a proud attention to detail.

No surprise one of the brothers was around on our visit, they seem to have been cloned because which ever one of their restaurants you visit they are on hand.  Other restaurateurs take note!

Morcilla Iberica, Quails eggs

Sadly the common disease of slapping chervil on everything that is not green seems to have spread like swine flu through the Hart Bros restaurants and I will refer back to our policy on this matter

At offal club we don’t dig nonfunctional garnish and have nothing but contempt for chervil sprigs…..

back to the dish

Super simple: buttery piquilo peppers, two slices of morcilla, two fried quail eggs, a drizzle of olive oil = Bingo.

It is perhaps a little unfair to compare this with some of the other more complex dishes on this blog but what we really like about this and any dishes as simple as this is the quality of the main components.

The morcilla used is not like any black pudding that you have had before. The Barrafina version is a kind of morcilla/chorizo half-breed and benefits from the best of both. We love anything made Iberico pigs, when cured and combined with flavours of blood, wine and paprika you have something really special. 

The flame-charred flavour of the piquiolo peppers were made for this dish and the juicy quail eggs add an extra dimension bringing the whole thing together.

‘looks a bit dainty’ I hear you say, well yes but don’t be fooled, this is a rich little number with brunch like qualities….call it a Spanish all-day breakfast. 

At six pounds and fifty pence this along with just about anything else on the menu there is more than fairly priced.

Barrafina comes highly recommended, nothing too offensive for non offal eaters, basically if you have a craving for pig and find yourself in the company of normal folk this is the place for you,……… kind of ‘first-date’ offal.

Offalclub 74/100

Bar Boulud – Degustation de charcuterie

We were first invited to Bar Boulud nearly a year ago for an industry ‘pre-opening’, many of Londons great and not so great cooks, chefs and restaurateurs assembled . Not sure really why Mr Boulud organised this….. anyway a night out with a room full of sweaty hospitality workers all casting judgement on the new kid on the block did not as you can imagine, make for a pleasant evening.

We revisited soon after and have since been drawn back time and time again, we can honestly say it just gets better and better. Now nearly 12 months on it is an extremely slick operation and hugely popular. A breath of fresh air in a London hotel restaurant scene guilty of that same old same old mentality.

 Boulud’s menu does tick all the required boxes of a hotel brasserie menu, yes the fruits de mer, rocket salads, kids menus and burgers are all there, difference here is that the seafood is incredibly fresh, the kids dishes are fit for gourmets and the burgers arguably the best in London. Other dishes are well prepared and the addition of some fab pates terrines and sausages make it an absolute delight. 

Charcuterie selections /plates / boards  sadly are for many chefs  a ‘cop out dish’ – a brainless menu filler usually consisting of a sliced selection of brought in cured meats, toasted sourdough, a few cornichons etc, etc… job done….bollox

I’m not just talking about the lower ranked restaurants here, many OC favourites including Koffmans and the minimalists at Terroirs have been guilty of laziness all be it using high quality ingredients.

Chef Boulud has put a lot of thought into his version and has enlisted the help of master Parisien charcutier Gilles Verot.

Degustation de Charcuterie

apologies again for the poor picture quality, a very burly ‘pap’ hating Russel Crowe was sitting on the next table and looked decidedly edgy as we brought out our camera, we rushed it!

So what do you get?

Fromage de tete – Jellied pigs head -a speciality of Gilles and absolutely awesome.

Lapin de Garrigue – Provencal pulled rabbit – there is only so much you can do with cold rabbit, this is about as good as it gets

Tagine d’agneau – Terrine of spiced slow cooked lamb, made in-house, sounds like it shouldn’t work but does and is spectacular.

Pate Grand-Mere – chicken liver and pork country pate – pretty much as you would expect…

Rosette de Lyon – dry cured french sausage –  ….yawn…  no really.. this is a nice contrast to the other charcuterie

Jambon de Paris – house made cooked ham ‘Gilles Verot’, this is particularly good.

Garnished with a tip-top celeriac and apple remoulade, some nicely judged homemade pickles, a pointless pile of frisee and unlimited toast.

Full of work and technical skill but most importantly thoughtfulness, this has not been slapped together, everything is balanced and except for the greenery has a purpose.

As charcuterie boards go we feel that with this Boulud has laid down a marker for others to follow, totally original and immensely enjoyable.

At £14.00 for a small board or £28 for a large it’s not cheap but Bar Boulud really is a class act and we feel fairly priced even if the portions do seem to get smaller on each visit. The set lunch at £20 is a steal.

offalclub 84/100

http://www.danielnyc.com/barbouludLondon.html

you can read more about Gilles Verot here http://www.verot-charcuterie.fr/